Ocean Waves Are Fractals
by Owen Borville
September 19, 2021
Science
Ocean waves are fractals, ever repeating patterns caused by wind, gravitational forces, and tectonics of the Earth.
These waves have a similar repeating pattern across the ocean surface, regardless of how they are formed and in particuar when the waves reach shallow water near the land surface.
Ocean waves also transmit energy from wind striking the ocean water surface.
Waves from wind can intensify during strong storms and hurricanes across the oceans, causing storm surge.
The gravitational force of the Sun and moon cause tides or tidal waves to rise and fall, causing ocean waves.
Movements of the Earth's crustal layer under the oceans, coastal landslides into the ocean, and volcanic eruptions near or underneath the oceans cause strong tsunamis, which in turn cause large waves.
Coastal wave morphology includes the wave crest, which is the highest point on a wave. The wave trough is the low point of a wave between crests. The wavelength is the distance between successive points of equal amplitude and phase on a wave (for example, crest to crest or trough to trough).
The wave height is the vertical distance between the crest and the preceding trough of a wave. The wave period is the amount of time for two successive wave crests to pass a stationary point.
Wave base is the downward limit of wave motion in the water and is directly related to how far apart the waves are at the surface. The depth of the wave base is equal to about half the wavelength. The fetch is the surface area in which ocean waves are generated by the wind. Fetch also refers to the length of the fetch area, measured in the direction of the wind.
Swells are wind-generated ocean waves that have traveled out of their source region, usually over a considerable distance. Swell waves exhibit a more regular and longer period or wavelength with flatter crests than locally generated wind waves.
Breaking waves occur where waves enter shallow water areas near the shore. Friction from the seafloor slows the wave near the wave base while the water at the wave crest piles up until it can no longer be supported and the wave breaks.
by Owen Borville
September 19, 2021
Science
Ocean waves are fractals, ever repeating patterns caused by wind, gravitational forces, and tectonics of the Earth.
These waves have a similar repeating pattern across the ocean surface, regardless of how they are formed and in particuar when the waves reach shallow water near the land surface.
Ocean waves also transmit energy from wind striking the ocean water surface.
Waves from wind can intensify during strong storms and hurricanes across the oceans, causing storm surge.
The gravitational force of the Sun and moon cause tides or tidal waves to rise and fall, causing ocean waves.
Movements of the Earth's crustal layer under the oceans, coastal landslides into the ocean, and volcanic eruptions near or underneath the oceans cause strong tsunamis, which in turn cause large waves.
Coastal wave morphology includes the wave crest, which is the highest point on a wave. The wave trough is the low point of a wave between crests. The wavelength is the distance between successive points of equal amplitude and phase on a wave (for example, crest to crest or trough to trough).
The wave height is the vertical distance between the crest and the preceding trough of a wave. The wave period is the amount of time for two successive wave crests to pass a stationary point.
Wave base is the downward limit of wave motion in the water and is directly related to how far apart the waves are at the surface. The depth of the wave base is equal to about half the wavelength. The fetch is the surface area in which ocean waves are generated by the wind. Fetch also refers to the length of the fetch area, measured in the direction of the wind.
Swells are wind-generated ocean waves that have traveled out of their source region, usually over a considerable distance. Swell waves exhibit a more regular and longer period or wavelength with flatter crests than locally generated wind waves.
Breaking waves occur where waves enter shallow water areas near the shore. Friction from the seafloor slows the wave near the wave base while the water at the wave crest piles up until it can no longer be supported and the wave breaks.